All posts by traderscreek

Garden

Cercospora Disease Treatment

Cercospora Disease Treatment

Cercospora is a fungal disease that can affect a wide range of plants, including fruits, vegetables, and ornamental plants. This disease is caused by various species of the fungal genus Cercospora. Cercospora disease treatment can be provided in several ways.

What is Cercospora?

Cercospora is a fungal disease that affects plants. The disease causes leaf spots, which can be circular, oval, or irregularly shaped, and can range in color from yellow to brown. The fungus attacks the leaves of plants, and in severe cases, it can cause defoliation.

Where can Cercospora be found?

Cercospora can be found in many parts of the world. It is commonly found in tropical and subtropical regions, but it can also occur in temperate regions. The disease can affect a wide range of plants, including fruits, vegetables, and ornamental plants.

What causes Cercospora?

Cercospora is caused by various species of the fungal genus Cercospora. The fungus thrives in warm, moist environments, making it more prevalent in humid climates. The disease is often spread through wind and rain, as the spores are easily carried from plant to plant.

How do you identify Cercospora infection?

Cercospora infection can be identified by the appearance of leaf spots on the plant. These spots can be circular, oval, or irregularly shaped and can range in color from yellow to brown. In some cases, a yellow halo may appear around the spot. As the disease progresses, the spots may coalesce, causing the affected areas of the leaf to turn brown and die. In severe cases, the leaves may curl and become distorted, and the plant may experience defoliation.

Cercospora is caused by various species of the fungal genus Cercospora disease treatment can be handled using different methods



It is important to note that leaf spots can be caused by a variety of plant diseases, so it is essential to properly diagnose the issue. If you suspect that your plant is infected with Cercospora, it is recommended that you consult a local plant pathologist or extension service for proper identification and treatment options.

What does Cercospora do to plants?

Cercospora can cause significant damage to plants. The disease attacks the leaves of plants, causing leaf spots that can be unsightly and affect the plant’s ability to photosynthesize. In severe cases, Cercospora can cause defoliation, weakening the plant and making it more susceptible to other diseases.

How to treat Cercospora?

The best way to execute Cercospora treatment is to prevent its spread. This can be done by ensuring plants have proper spacing and adequate air circulation. Fungicides can also be used to treat Cercospora. According to a study by the University of Arkansas, fungicides containing azoxystrobin and pyraclostrobin were effective in controlling Cercospora on cucurbits (pumpkins, cucumbers, squash, etc.). Additionally, removing infected leaves and plant debris can help to reduce the spread of the disease.

Cercospora is a fungal disease that can affect a wide range of plants. The disease is caused by various species of the fungal genus Cercospora and can be found in many parts of the world. Cercospora attacks the leaves of plants, causing leaf spots and, in severe cases, defoliation. Cercospora disease treatment is handled through proper spacing, adequate air circulation, fungicides, and removing infected leaves and plant debris. By taking these steps, gardeners and farmers can reduce the spread of Cercospora and help to protect their crops.

Sources:

  • McGrath, M. T. (2017). Cercospora Leaf Spot: A Threat to Vegetable Crops. Cornell Vegetable Program. Retrieved from https://cvp.cce.cornell.edu/submission.php?id=449.

  • Yang, X., Wu, S., Wu, T., Lin, S., & Guo, L. (2017). Efficacy of Fungicides against Cercospora Leaf Spot on Cucurbits and Cercospora Leaf Blight on Soybeans. Plant Health Progress, 18(4), 224-228. doi:10.1094/PHP-04-17-0020-RS.
Garden

Beet Gardening for Success and Food

Beet Gardening for Success and Food

Beets are a root vegetable that has been cultivated for thousands of years. They are biennials grown as an annual in the garden. Their origin is unclear, but they are believed to have originated in the Mediterranean region or possibly in Egypt. The ancient Greeks and Romans used beets for medicinal purposes and as food. Beets were also used as a natural dye, particularly for fabric and leather. Today, they are grown all over the world, with the largest producers being Russia, the United States, and Poland. Beet Gardening for Success and Food is not difficult.

Types and Varieties of Beets

There are several varieties of beets, each with its own unique characteristics. The most common are red beets, golden beets, and chioggia beets.

Red beets are the most common. They have a deep reddish-purple color and are often used in salads, soups, and roasted dishes.

Golden beets have a bright, sunny yellow color and are milder in flavor than red beets. They are often used in salads and roasted dishes.

Chioggia beets, also known as candy-striped beets because of their striking red and white striped flesh, have a slightly sweeter taste than red beets and are often used in salads and as a garnish.

Choosing Beet Varieties: Color and Days to Maturity

When choosing a beet variety, differences such as flavor, texture, size, sugar content (the roots are typically high in sugar, 8% to 20%), and days to maturity should be considered. Here are three examples of the many to choose from:

  1. Red Ace – This variety produces round, smooth, deep-red beets that are about 3 inches in diameter. They mature in about 55 days and have a sweet, tender flesh.
  2. Golden Detroit – This variety produces medium-sized, round, golden-yellow beets that are about 2-3 inches in diameter. They mature in about 55 days and have a mild, sweet flavor.
  3. Chioggia – This variety produces medium-sized, round beets with a distinctive red and white striped flesh. They mature in about 60 days and have a sweet, tender flavor.
  4. Lutz Green Leaf is a large plant with tasty green leaves. Its baseball-sized, heart-shaped roots are sweet and tender and it and stores well. With their large size, these beets take a bit longer to mature at about 80 days.

Growing Beets Tips for Planting, Care, and Harvesting

It will take approximately 2 ounces, roughly 1,500 beet seeds, to plant a 100 foot row. In a good year, the yield would be about 80 to 100 lbs. of roots – excluding the greens. If you are planning a “year-round” food supply, plant about 10 – 15 feet per person. That would provide approximately 8 lbs. – 15lbs. per person – roughly 40 to 60 beet roots which can be turned into 8 to 15 pints of canned beets. Beet Gardening for Success and Food will provide vitamins, minerals, and important nutrients.

Soil

Beets prefer well-drained, loose soil that’s rich in organic matter. Add compost or well-rotted manure to the soil a few weeks before planting. Soil pH should range between 6.0 to 7.5. If your soil is too acidic, add lime to raise the pH level. If it’s too alkaline, add sulfur to lower the pH level.

Planting

Beets can tolerate cold and near freezing conditions but do best with temperatures from 50°F to 75°F. They do not do well in hot weather. The roots can get tough and fibrous. They are a perfect option for spring and fall crops in northern zones or as a winter crop in zone 9 and higher.

Beets can be grown by either sowing seeds directly into the garden or transplanting seedlings. Whether you decide to direct sow into the garden or start your seeds in pots, soak seeds for 24 hours before planting. You need to understand that beet “seeds” are a cluster of several small seeds together. After the seeds germinate and the seedlings are 2 inches tall pull the weaker shoots to allow the strongest the room it needs.

This variety produces round, smooth, deep-red beets that are about 3 inches in diameter. They mature in about 55 days and have a sweet, tender flesh.

When starting seeds indoors for transplanting, use small 2” x 2” pots so the seedlings have enough room to grow – both above and below the soil line. Try to start the seeds about 30 days before your last spring frost. I use a sterile seed starting mix. Soak seeds for 24 hours then plant 1/2” deep and place the pots under grow lights. When daytime temperatures are expected to average 50°F and danger of frost has past, transplant into the garden.

When direct sowing, begin planting as soon as the soil has warmed to about 45°F. Beet seeds should be planted about 1/2 inch deep and spaced about 2 inches apart, space rows about 12” to 18” apart. To ensure maximum germination, keep the soil moist. Seeds should germinate in 7 to 15 days. When the seedlings are 6” tall, pull every other plant. The final spacing between plants should be a minimum of 4” – 6”. You can use what you pull – both roots as well as greens.

Plantings can be made every 2 weeks before mid-summer. One way to judge when to stop planting in the spring is to check average temperatures in your area. When the average temperature is expected to average over 80°F, count back 60 days – that should be the last date for spring planting. For Autumn planting, start sowing seeds 10 – 11 weeks before frosts are expected.

Watering

Beets need consistent moisture to grow properly, but they don’t like to be waterlogged. Water regularly, but don’t overwater. An inch of water each week is recommended for proper growth. Mulching around the plants can help to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Sun Exposure

Beets prefer full sun, but they can also grow in partial shade. However, if grown in too much shade, they may not develop the deep, rich color and flavor that they’re known for.

Fertilizer

Beets are heavy feeders, however, choose a fertilizer that is lower in nitrogen than both potassium and phosphorus. Too much nitrogen will lead to more leaf growth at the detriment to the roots. You can also add a side dressing of compost or other organic fertilizer once or twice during the growing season.

Beet Gardening for Success and Food This variety produces medium-sized, round beets with a distinctive red and white striped flesh. They mature in about 60 days and have a sweet, tender flavor

Problems, Pests, and Diseases

Beets are generally resistant to pests and diseases, but there are a few that can cause problems. The most common pests are aphids and leaf miners.

Aphids can be controlled by spraying the plants with a solution of water and dish soap.

Leaf miners can be controlled by removing infected leaves and applying a natural insecticide.

Flea beetles are a common pest problem. They damage leaves by leaving numerous tiny holes in beet leaves. If the infestation is bad enough the plants can be killed. Two organic methods to control flea beetles are:

  • using floating row covers to protect the plants and
  • adding beneficial nematodes in the soil to attack and kill the beetle larvae.

Cabbage loopers, tiny green caterpillars that can destroy the plant can be controlled by using Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) to control.

A common disease affecting beets is powdery mildew. This can be prevented by ensuring good air circulation around the plants and avoiding overhead watering. If powdery mildew does occur, remove infected leaves and apply a natural fungicide.

Keep beets well-irrigated to prevent scab, the same disorder that affects potatoes, causing raised brown rough spots on the mature roots.

Boron deficiency in the soil can cause an internal breakdown or browning. This is most likely to occur in alkaline soils after prolonged hot, dry periods. If this happens, get a soil test to confirm. Adding one tablespoon of borax to a gallon of water will provide enough boron for a 250 square foot garden to fix.

Damping can impact seedlings (both direct sow as well as in the greenhouse) Different forms of soil-borne fungi that grow in wet, humid environments cause damping. It’s most likely damping off if the seedlings die unexpectedly not long after planting, and the plants look discolored and decaying. Enable the seed-starting mix to dry entirely before watering, and make sure your soil has good drainage. Do not overwater your plants.

Cercospora leaf spot is a fungus that occurs on the leaves as dark, patchy spots that may be yellow in color. Remove the affected leaves and throw them out, avoid touching healthy looking leaves. If your beets are planted close together, thin them out, so crowded plants have a better chance to grow. Cercospora can be controlled by spraying Mancozeb

Harvesting and Storing Beets

You should pull beets when the soil is dry. Be careful when pulling or lifting roots from the ground, if you need to use a pitchfork or shovel, do so carefully. Do not to break or injure the beets.

Beets can be harvested at any time however, they will mature at about 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. Be sure to cut off the leaves about 1 inch above the beet before storing. The green tops are edible, and frankly very tasty. If you cut away the greens at the root, you may cause damage and the root to bleed.

Any roots that are damaged should be used within a few weeks, they will not store well and rot spots will start at any damage. To prepare any roots for storage, carefully rub soil from the roots, try not to wash but if you do, dry them.

Beets can be stored in a cool, dry place for several weeks. Store beets in a cold moist place as near to freezing as possible without actual freezing, 32°-40°F and 95 percent relative humidity in a container—a bucket or plastic storage box or cooler with moist sand, peat moss, or sawdust. Don’t pack roots too tightly; if the roots touch they can start to rot; be sure to leave 2 inches (5 cm) of insulating material around at the top, bottom, and sides of the stored roots. Set the lid loosely so that there is good air circulation.

For long term storage, beets can be cooked for about twenty minutes then frozen. They can also be pressure canned or pickled and canned using a hot water method, see Ball Jar Recipe Blog for recipes for both methods of canning.

By following these tips for planting, care, and harvesting, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest and enjoy a beet gardening for success and food

The below chart provides the calories, vitamins, minerals and other important nutrients provided by 100 grams (roughly 3 ounces) of raw beets. The information from this chart comes from USDA Nutrient Database

Beet Gardening for Success and Food

Edible Plants

Purple Flowering Raspberry

Purple Flowering Raspberry – Rubus odoratus

General Information:

Rubus odoratus, commonly known as Purple Flowering Raspberry or Virginia Raspberry, is a deciduous shrub native to the eastern regions of North America. It belongs to the rose family (Rosaceae) and is closely related to other brambles like blackberries and raspberries.

Common Names:

Purple Flowering Raspberry is known by several common names, including Virginia Raspberry, Flowering Raspberry, and Thimbleberry.

Identification:

The plant can grow up to 6 feet tall and has large, dark green leaves with three to five lobes. The stem is prickly and covered with fine hairs. The flowers are pink to purple and have five petals, which give them a rose-like appearance. The fruit is a small, red raspberry that is edible and sweet but not as flavorful as other raspberry varieties.

Purple Flowering Raspberry is native to the eastern regions of North America Found in Rotterdam NY along the Mohawk River
Look-Alikes:

The plant can be confused with other raspberry or blackberry plants, especially when not in bloom. However, the plant’s distinctive pink to purple flowers make it easy to identify when in bloom.

Distribution:

This raspberry is native to the eastern regions of North America, from Quebec and Ontario south to Georgia and Alabama. It is found in a variety of habitats, including woodlands, meadows, and along roadsides and stream banks.

Preferred Habitat:

Purple Flowering Raspberry prefers well-drained soil and partial to full shade. It can tolerate a range of soil types, including sandy and rocky soils.

Edible Parts:

The fruit is edible and sweet but not as flavorful as other raspberry or blackberry varieties. The fruit can be eaten fresh, cooked, or used to make jams and jellies.

Harvest:

The fruit of ripens in late summer or early fall. It can be harvested by hand, but the prickly stems make it difficult to pick. It is recommended to wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting.

Interesting Facts:

Purple Flowering Raspberry is a popular ornamental plant in gardens and landscaping due to its beautiful flowers.

The plant has historically been used for medicinal purposes by indigenous people in North America.

The leaves and roots were used to treat various ailments, including sore throats, coughs, and fevers.

This raspberry is an important food source for wildlife, including birds and small mammals.

In conclusion, this raspberry is a beautiful and useful native plant that deserves a place in any garden or landscape. Its striking pink to purple flowers, edible fruit, and wildlife value make it a great addition to any ecosystem.

Citations:

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. (2023). Rubus odoratus. Retrieved from https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=ruod 
Missouri Botanical Garden. (2023). Rubus odoratus. Retrieved from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=e681
United States Department of Agriculture. (2021). Plant Guide: Purple-flowering Raspberry (Rubus odoratus). Retrieved from https://plants.usda.gov/plantguide/pdf/pg_ruod.pdf
Survival Guide

Becoming a Forager

Becoming a Forager

Becoming a Forager, it’s the words that bring out the five-year-old in me… A hazy faraway scene, maybe out in the plains, majestic snow-capped mountains – their peaks hidden by clouds frame the horizon, on nearby foothills, mammoths in the mist stalked by dire wolves. In the fore ground women and children, our ancestors, dig sunchoke roots and pick berries.  Nearby men with spears in hand stand ever vigilant. Returning hunters, animal skin quivers slung across their backs approach. They carry turkey and boar. In a nearby river clearing, smoldering fires, flames dancing in the breeze tended by elders await the feast to come. bbb

Ok, back to adulthood.

Foraging, as defined by Cambridge dictionary, is “To go from place to place searching for things you can eat or use”.

Based on that definition, everyone engages in foraging. Think of the things found while out and about: an empty flowerpot on the side of the road, “free” pallets put out by a business, ripe blackberries alongside your favorite hiking trail or maybe freshly fallen walnuts you gather every autumn while on a walk. It is not complicated; foraging can be a simple afternoon stroll, or a deliberate endeavor designed to secure food or supplies for an extended period.

Foraging for Edibles

Let’s talk wild edibles. All geographic regions have possibilities. Abundance is all around if you know what to look for. Before beginning, reach out to your state’s Department of Natural Resources to first, understand if foraging is legal and second, what can be legally foraged. If the answer to the first is yes, then take stock of plants you already know and can identify that are legal. Do not skip the easy finds or the no-brainers. Where I live there are abandoned orchards of apple trees, butternut, elderberry, mulberry, besides wild dandelion and broadleaf plantain – the list goes on. Make sure all plants you can think of are listed. Don’t overlook outliers like oaks and maples. Their seeds can be eaten or turned into flour with a bit of effort. Walk about, find them, take pictures in various growth stages – sprouting, early growth, blooming, etc. Become familiar with the multitude of characteristics of each plant, from leaves to bark, stems, flowers and fruit.

Learning to Forage Edibles

Next, build your knowledge base. Commit to learning at least five new plants each month (60 plants per year). Don’t shy away from learning about poisonous plants, it is good to know and be able to identify what not to eat. Start a forager library – buy a field guide or two. Make sure the guide covers your region and has clear concise pictures. A good guide will include “look-alike” plants that are either not edible or downright poisonous and a good guide will describe the difference between “the good, the bad and the ugly”.

Thimbleberry, a new find when I started becoming a forager

Interact with like-minded people, go to a local garden club. Ask if anyone is versed in wild edibles and if so, are they willing to teach what they know. Look into social media, there are many foraging groups out there. Find one or two that have daily activity and join – avoid any groups that “harbor” bullies. Log on daily and read the activity and scroll through the pictures the group members share. Don’t shy away from asking questions, many members are more than happy to be “guides and mentors”. Look online for foraging classes you can sign-up for. They can be costly but a good class may prove invaluable. As you are learning and meeting people, build your own group with the new people you meet.

Get out and scout, take walks (they are healthy). Use what you know and have learned, go “afield”. When you find some edibles, takes pictures, jot down where you found them and then, harvest and take them home. Try them out raw and cooked. Do you like how they taste? If so great – you have found a “new” food source.

Don’t shy away from plants you don’t not know or are unsure of. Instead, take pictures, jot down their location, what the habitat is they are growing in, their size and any other attributes (leaves, stems, bark and fruits) that stand out. Show the pictures and notes to people in your foraging circle. What do they think? Can they hazard a guess or definite identification? APP’s like iNaturalist are fantastic (don’t forget about your social media groups), just upload pictures and any identifying facts you noticed. There are thousands of people that can help identify most any plant – edible or poisonous. Once identified, add your pictures and notes to your database so the next time you are afield you know you have an edible to harvest or a plant to avoid.

If you end up enjoying the forager lifestyle, you are following in the steps of your ancestors!! While becoming a forager just think, by adding natures bounty to your pantry your food bill will shrink, the food will be natural without being “highly processed” and filled with chemicals and preservatives.

Uncategorized

Caledonia Forest and Stream Club Inc

Caledonia Forest and Stream Club Inc

Per their website: “Caledonia Forest and Stream Club Inc. was formed in 1910 by a group of sportsmen and women with a desire to conserve our natural resources and to provide an area for individual and family activities in hunting, shooting sports, fishing, and archery.

One of the primary functions of the Club for many years was raising fish to be distributed into Vermont’s rivers and streams by the Fish & Wildlife Department. The breeding and raising of fish was eventually taken over by the state.

Over the years the club has be constantly improved and developed to be one of the best places in New England for individuals to practice and perfect their marksmanship.

The Club offers instruction and participation in all aspects of sport hunting and shooting, including Hunter Safety Courses and firearms instruction. We encourage and support all aspects of shooting sports, including hunting, shooting, reloading, archery, and black powder firearms. We offer several shooting sports to improve ones skill.

The Club holds Hunter Safety Courses each year to teach the proper way to use a firearm and the environmental resources available to hunters, and the current laws and regulations affecting the shooting sports. An important part of this instruction is to encourage respect for private property and that personal and property safety are the highest priority.”

Facilities

• THE CLUBHOUSE, renovated in 2009, provides conference room, restroom, and kitchen. The conference room is used for the monthly Directors Meeting, staging area for events and holding hunter education classes.

• 3D ARCHERY COURSE with 20+ stations to accommodate archers of all experience levels. There is also an archery practice range. We highly recommend good stable shoes for walking the archery course.

• 50-YARD RANGE with 10 shoothng lanes, covered shooting area and target mounts at 25 and 50 yards for pistols and small bore rifles. Movable target stands are available for varying distances.

• 100-YARD RIFLE RANGE with 18 shooting lanes, covered shooting area with sturdy benches and target mounts at 25, 50 and 100 yards.

• 200-YARD RIFLE RANGE with 12 shooting lanes, covered shooting area with sturdy benches and target mounts at 100 yards, 100 meters, 200 yards and 200 meters. Excellent place to sight in that long-range rifle.

• TRAP RANGE for shooting trap and shotguns. Cement footings for convenient shooting. There are weekly shoots throughout the summer, on Sunday mornings, weather permitting. Watch the calendar for a start date.

• COWBOY RANGE for the cowboy action matches.

Access:

Private – membership applications available

Location

Caledonia Forest and Stream Club, Inc.
Field and Stream Road
St Johnsbury, VT 05819

Mailing Address

Caledonia Forest and Stream Club Inc
PO Box 603
Field and Stream Road
St. Johnsbury, VT 05819

Contact Information

Website: http://www.caledoniaforestandstream.com/

Membership: http://www.caledoniaforestandstream.com/index.php/the-club/cfsc-membership

Contact info: http://www.caledoniaforestandstream.com/index.php/the-club/directors

Information on Vermont shooting clubs and rifle ranges in the state of Vermont along with the types of shooting that is possible – rifle, skeet, pistol. Where possible, web sites, maps and email addresses of the shooting ranges have been included.

If there are other rifle ranges that have not been included please email us at: TC Email

Back to Vermont gun Shows

Check out Vermont gun clubs and shooting ranges

Go to NRA

Gun ownership is the second amendment to the US Constitution. The fact it is number two identifies just how important it was considered – free speech being number one. If you are a hunter, sport shooter, or outdoors lover, you need participate in the sport and stand up and be counted. Gun clubs and shooting ranges are important places to start. Many are involved in advocacy and make their voices heard in gun ownership and the sport in general. Go to enjoy your rights and participate in the shooting sports and join a club. By doing so, you will become a better shooter, hunter and gun owner.

Uncategorized

Chester Rod and Gun Club

Chester Rod and Gun Club

Per their website: “The Chester Rod and Gun Club, located in picturesque Chester, New Hampshire, was established in 1932 to provide a family friendly environment to promote a variety of archery and shooting activities. For our growing membership, we offer shooting matches, family oriented competitions, and training opportunities.”

“The CRGC exists to:

Promote conservation of natural resources and wildlife.

Educate people about the responsible, safe and sportsmanlike use of firearms, archery equipment and related equipment.

Provide safe range areas to practice the use of firearms, archery equipment and related equipment.

Promote the interests of youth in the safe and sportsman like use of firearms, archery equipment and related equipment.

Support and follow the rules of the CRGC, the New Hampshire Fish & Game Department, the laws of the town of Chester, the State of New Hampshire, and the United States of America.”

Facilities

Outdoor Ranges

25 to 150 yard Rifle Range (16 lanes of covered benches)

20 to 50 yard Pistol Range (18 lanes, covered)

Five Stand Range

9 Station Sporting Clays Course (Wooded)

Bowling Pin Range (6 stations)

Eight multi-use Utility Bay Shooting Ranges

Centerfire Pistol Steel Plate Rack Range

.22 LR Pistol Steel Plate Rack Range

Centerfire Pistol Dueling tree

.22 LR Pistol Dueling tree

Sporting Clays is open during the summer months (April/May – October). Extending Sporting Clays into the winter is under consideration.

Five Stand Five-Stand is currently being considered for the winter months (November – March/April)

In addition there are Practice Traps, with a voice-activated controller, available to certified club members and their guest(s).

Indoor Pistol Range

25 to 50 foot Pistol Range (targets can be no closer than 25 feet).
Handguns up to .45 caliber which are less than 16″ of barrel length are allowed.

Pistol Caliber Carbines are allowed to be fired in 9mm, 40 S&W, .357, and 45ACP.

Note that 5.7 x 28mm, tracer rounds, armor piercing rounds, and shot shells are NOT allowed at any time!

Use of Center fire rifles that use center fire rifle cartridges or shotguns are not allowed at any time.

.22 short or .22 LR Rimfire Rifles are allowed (but not to include .22 Magnum nor .17 HMR rifles).

Pellet and B.B. rilfes and handguns are allowed.

Drawing a loaded firearm from a holster is not allowed on this range.

Chester Rod and Gun Club offers archery enthusiasts varied shooting opportunities for novice and veteran shooters including Indoor Archery, Archery Improvement Leagues, Outdoor Archery, and 3D Outdoor Archery.

Access:

Private

Location
Chester Rod and Gun Club
99 Rod and Gun Club Road
Chester, NH 03036

Mailing Address
Chester Rod and Gun Club
99 Rod and Gun Club Road
Chester, NH 03036

Contact
Phones: (603) 887-4629

Website: https://chesterrodandgunclub.com/

Membership Info: https://chesterrodandgunclub.com/join-the-club/

If there are other rifle ranges that have not been included please email us at: TC Email

Back to Vermont gun Shows

Check out Vermont gun clubs and shooting ranges

Go to NRA

Gun ownership is the second amendment to the US Constitution. The fact it is number two identifies just how important it was considered – free speech being number one. If you are a hunter, sport shooter, or outdoors lover, you need participate in the sport and stand up and be counted. Gun clubs and shooting ranges are important places to start. Many are involved in advocacy and make their voices heard in gun ownership and the sport in general. Go to enjoy your rights and participate in the shooting sports and join a club. By doing so, you will become a better shooter, hunter and gun owner